Section: 41
Hours: 4
I fabricated the fuel vents from AT0-032X1/4 aluminum tubing.
Disclaimer: This blog is to provide others insight into my experience and for my own historical purposes. Airplane construction is a serious affair. I have no authoritative skills relating to airplane construction. As such, any use of the information contained on this blog is at your own risk.
Monday, December 30, 2019
Sunday, December 29, 2019
Section: wings
Hours: 3
My avionics configuration does not have enough discrete inputs to support the vane stall warning and I have the AOA pitot so it is not required, so I decided to remove the vane and cover over the hole in the leading edge. The vane and micro switch are (barely) accessible through an access plate in the wing. The vane assembly is attached using 2 screws with allen head slots. It was very difficult to reach in and get an allen wrench in the screw head and the screws were rusted and very difficult to break loose. If I were to do it again, I would skip installing the vane assembly in the first place...
I fashioned a piece of aluminum to match the curve of the leading edge. I didn't want to have rivets on the leading edge, so I used some pro-seal to hold the aluminum filler piece in place. Later I will use some epoxy/micro balloon on the outside to smooth out the hole and after paint it will not be visible.
Hours: 3
My avionics configuration does not have enough discrete inputs to support the vane stall warning and I have the AOA pitot so it is not required, so I decided to remove the vane and cover over the hole in the leading edge. The vane and micro switch are (barely) accessible through an access plate in the wing. The vane assembly is attached using 2 screws with allen head slots. It was very difficult to reach in and get an allen wrench in the screw head and the screws were rusted and very difficult to break loose. If I were to do it again, I would skip installing the vane assembly in the first place...
I fashioned a piece of aluminum to match the curve of the leading edge. I didn't want to have rivets on the leading edge, so I used some pro-seal to hold the aluminum filler piece in place. Later I will use some epoxy/micro balloon on the outside to smooth out the hole and after paint it will not be visible.
Saturday, December 28, 2019
Section: 23
Hours: 4
I'm working on finishing up the odds and ends for the wings. First up today, I added an Adel clamp to secure the wiring for the roll servo.
Then I installed the aileron connecting rod for the other wing.
And finished up by pressing the bushings into the flap struts. Looks like I will need to touch up with some primer around the bushing where the socket pressed into the metal.
Hours: 4
I'm working on finishing up the odds and ends for the wings. First up today, I added an Adel clamp to secure the wiring for the roll servo.
Then I installed the aileron connecting rod for the other wing.
And finished up by pressing the bushings into the flap struts. Looks like I will need to touch up with some primer around the bushing where the socket pressed into the metal.
Friday, December 27, 2019
Section: 17
Hours: 2
I installed a landing light. The final angle adjustment will be made after the wing is attached to the fuselage.
The lens is covered with clear packing tape for now to prevent scratching during the upcoming move to the airport and mounting on the fuselage.
Hours: 2
I installed a landing light. The final angle adjustment will be made after the wing is attached to the fuselage.
The lens is covered with clear packing tape for now to prevent scratching during the upcoming move to the airport and mounting on the fuselage.
Sunday, December 22, 2019
Section: avionics, wings
Hours: 5
I finished up the installation of the pitot tube.
Here are the fittings for attaching the plastic lines to the aluminum lines from the pitot. I decided to use 90 degree connectors so the plastic tubing will not have to make a sharp bend at the end.
I bundled up the excess wiring and laced it up.
Here's the inside view of where the plastic tubing attaches.
The pitot wiring would not fit through the existing wiring bushing so I wrapped it with spiral wire protector and ran it through the rib opening.
Here is the mast and pitot after installation. The controller box is under the access plate to the right of the pitot mast.
Hours: 5
I finished up the installation of the pitot tube.
Here are the fittings for attaching the plastic lines to the aluminum lines from the pitot. I decided to use 90 degree connectors so the plastic tubing will not have to make a sharp bend at the end.
I bundled up the excess wiring and laced it up.
Here's the inside view of where the plastic tubing attaches.
The pitot wiring would not fit through the existing wiring bushing so I wrapped it with spiral wire protector and ran it through the rib opening.
Here is the mast and pitot after installation. The controller box is under the access plate to the right of the pitot mast.
Friday, December 20, 2019
Section: wings, avionics
Hours: 4
Earlier I installed doublers and cut holes on the inboard side of the aileron belcrank for the pitot mast. The pitot tubing runs into the aileron push/pull tube unless you bend the tubing out of the way. Today I figured out how to bend the tubing to keep it out of the way of the aileron tube but still allow the pitot tube to be removed from the mast for future maintenance.
I mounted the regulator electronics box to a wing panel access door. Since I am using counter sunk screws for the mounting and the flange on the regulator box is not counter sunk, I fabricated a couple aluminum bar spacers with counter sinks to place between the access door and the box.
Here is the pitot tube inserted in the mast with the tubing bent to avoid interference with the aileron push/pull tube.
Hours: 4
Earlier I installed doublers and cut holes on the inboard side of the aileron belcrank for the pitot mast. The pitot tubing runs into the aileron push/pull tube unless you bend the tubing out of the way. Today I figured out how to bend the tubing to keep it out of the way of the aileron tube but still allow the pitot tube to be removed from the mast for future maintenance.
I mounted the regulator electronics box to a wing panel access door. Since I am using counter sunk screws for the mounting and the flange on the regulator box is not counter sunk, I fabricated a couple aluminum bar spacers with counter sinks to place between the access door and the box.
Here is the pitot tube inserted in the mast with the tubing bent to avoid interference with the aileron push/pull tube.
Thursday, December 12, 2019
Section: 41
Hours: 3
It's been awhile since I've done any riveting, but today I pulled out the rivet gun, put a couple drips of Marvel Mystery oil down the intake, fired up the air compressor, checked the hoses and air pressure and pounded a few into the wing walk panels. Luckily the stiffeners are all back riveted which is easy work.
Riveting is so much more fun than fiberglass :-)
Hours: 3
It's been awhile since I've done any riveting, but today I pulled out the rivet gun, put a couple drips of Marvel Mystery oil down the intake, fired up the air compressor, checked the hoses and air pressure and pounded a few into the wing walk panels. Luckily the stiffeners are all back riveted which is easy work.
Riveting is so much more fun than fiberglass :-)
Thursday, December 5, 2019
Wednesday, December 4, 2019
Section: wings
Hours: 3
The top forward skin of the right wing does not match up evenly with the wing tip so today I added some glass to the wing tip to close the gap. First I sanded the wing tip in the area to be glassed to ensure a good bond. The area to be added is a thin long strip. Regular fiberglass cloth will not fit and flox would not be strong enough, so I used some unidirectional rovings pulled from fiberglass cloth. This will produce a strong high fiber content layup that should resist chipping or breaking.
Hours: 3
The top forward skin of the right wing does not match up evenly with the wing tip so today I added some glass to the wing tip to close the gap. First I sanded the wing tip in the area to be glassed to ensure a good bond. The area to be added is a thin long strip. Regular fiberglass cloth will not fit and flox would not be strong enough, so I used some unidirectional rovings pulled from fiberglass cloth. This will produce a strong high fiber content layup that should resist chipping or breaking.
Tuesday, December 3, 2019
Section: 38
Hours: 2
I did last minute touch up sanding and surface prep on the canopy skirt and then primed it.
Section:
Hours: 3
I mounted the aileron trim servo and added the spring clips to the aileron actuator tube. First I mounted the servo to one of the wing access panels and ran the actuator arm to center. Then, with the actuator tube connected to the aileron, I set the aileron to the center position using the rigging template attached to the end of the wing. Finally I lined up the mounting plate to the hole in the wing and used a drafting triangle and angle measure tool to transfer the center point to the actuator tube.
I then removed the actuator tube from the wing, marked the positions for the spring clips and drilled the rivet holes for the clips.
I used the provided pull rivets to attach the clips and then installed the aileron actuator tube back in the wing. I won't attach the springs until after I attach the wings to the fuselage and get the final rigging set.
Hours: 2
I did last minute touch up sanding and surface prep on the canopy skirt and then primed it.
Section:
Hours: 3
I mounted the aileron trim servo and added the spring clips to the aileron actuator tube. First I mounted the servo to one of the wing access panels and ran the actuator arm to center. Then, with the actuator tube connected to the aileron, I set the aileron to the center position using the rigging template attached to the end of the wing. Finally I lined up the mounting plate to the hole in the wing and used a drafting triangle and angle measure tool to transfer the center point to the actuator tube.
I then removed the actuator tube from the wing, marked the positions for the spring clips and drilled the rivet holes for the clips.
I used the provided pull rivets to attach the clips and then installed the aileron actuator tube back in the wing. I won't attach the springs until after I attach the wings to the fuselage and get the final rigging set.
Sunday, December 1, 2019
Section: 41
Hours: 4
I fabricated pushrods for the flaps and aileron connections between the fuselage and wings.
Hours: 4
I fabricated pushrods for the flaps and aileron connections between the fuselage and wings.
Saturday, November 30, 2019
Section: avionics
Hours: 4
Today I finished up some wiring projects. First up was adding the connector cable to the roll servo in the wing.
I discovered the hole in the servo bracket that the connector mounts in was too small. Luckily I was able to reach in with the Dremel and enlarge the hole.
The db connector attaches to the back of the servo and the other connector goes through the servo mounting bracket and then plugs into the wiring harness from the wing.
I also finished up mounting the GMU22 magnetometer in the wing. I used the mounting kit that came with my panel from SteinAir. This kit fits into the ADAHRS mounting plate which inserts into rails built into the wing.
Section: 41
Hours: 1
I had previously prepped and primed the wing/fuselage intersection panels. The panel that wraps around the leading edge must be bent to match the curvature of the wing. I found some PVC pipe of the proper diameter, chucked it up in my vise and easily applied the specified radius bend.
Hours: 4
Today I finished up some wiring projects. First up was adding the connector cable to the roll servo in the wing.
I discovered the hole in the servo bracket that the connector mounts in was too small. Luckily I was able to reach in with the Dremel and enlarge the hole.
The db connector attaches to the back of the servo and the other connector goes through the servo mounting bracket and then plugs into the wiring harness from the wing.
I also finished up mounting the GMU22 magnetometer in the wing. I used the mounting kit that came with my panel from SteinAir. This kit fits into the ADAHRS mounting plate which inserts into rails built into the wing.
Section: 41
Hours: 1
I had previously prepped and primed the wing/fuselage intersection panels. The panel that wraps around the leading edge must be bent to match the curvature of the wing. I found some PVC pipe of the proper diameter, chucked it up in my vise and easily applied the specified radius bend.
Friday, November 29, 2019
Section: 38
Hours: 6
The epoxy has cured so I sanded the skin coat on the canopy.
I had also skin coated the empennage fairing. Today I sanded it down and applied primer.
Unfortunately, it looks like the skin coat I applied with the foam roller brush did not fully penetrate all the pin holes. This part did not have a gel coat and had lots of pin holes. I will have to sand off the primer and reapply epoxy using a squeegee. Here's a good writeup on SkimCoating.
Pinholes - gaaack!!!!
Hours: 6
The epoxy has cured so I sanded the skin coat on the canopy.
I had also skin coated the empennage fairing. Today I sanded it down and applied primer.
Unfortunately, it looks like the skin coat I applied with the foam roller brush did not fully penetrate all the pin holes. This part did not have a gel coat and had lots of pin holes. I will have to sand off the primer and reapply epoxy using a squeegee. Here's a good writeup on SkimCoating.
Pinholes - gaaack!!!!
Wednesday, November 27, 2019
Section: 38
Hours: 7
I sanded down the micro balloons and then applied an epoxy skin coat using the foam roller brush.
Hours: 7
I sanded down the micro balloons and then applied an epoxy skin coat using the foam roller brush.
Tuesday, November 26, 2019
Section: 38
Hours: 8
Today I sanded the fiberglass and carefully feathered the edges. I was careful not to sand through to the plexiglass.
Then I applied epoxy/micro balloons to fill the pinholes, rivet indentations and to blend the edge of the fiberglass into the aluminum.
It was another cold day. I've been use a propane space heater to warm up the garage so the epoxy will cure.
Hours: 8
Today I sanded the fiberglass and carefully feathered the edges. I was careful not to sand through to the plexiglass.
Then I applied epoxy/micro balloons to fill the pinholes, rivet indentations and to blend the edge of the fiberglass into the aluminum.
It was another cold day. I've been use a propane space heater to warm up the garage so the epoxy will cure.
Monday, November 25, 2019
Section: 38
Hours: 6
I was not happy with the way the fiberglass around the canopy turned out. I had sanded through to the plexiglass in several places so I was worried about the fiberglass skirt being strong enough in those areas. Also, the fiberglass I had applied looked too translucent when seen from inside the cockpit.
Today I applied a couple more layers of glass with darkly pigmented epoxy. These should cover the areas I sanded through to the Plexiglas and add additional color.
Hours: 6
I was not happy with the way the fiberglass around the canopy turned out. I had sanded through to the plexiglass in several places so I was worried about the fiberglass skirt being strong enough in those areas. Also, the fiberglass I had applied looked too translucent when seen from inside the cockpit.
Today I applied a couple more layers of glass with darkly pigmented epoxy. These should cover the areas I sanded through to the Plexiglas and add additional color.
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