Section: 24
Hours: 4
I counter sank the holes for the flush rivets in the wing tip. Lots of holes...
Then I fabricated a keeper for the piano hinge wires using 2 small sections of hinge double flush riveted together. I added a nut plate to the back of the wing tip rib for the screw to hold the keeper in place.
Here are the wing ends with the piano hinges riveted in place.
Section: 19
Hours: 2
I pulled out the 22 ga wiring I had installed for the tip lights and replaced it with a 3 wire 18 ga shielded pair and wired in the connector. Now all the wires for the tip lights are included in this bundle with shielding and I won't be using any part of the factory supplied wire harness for the tip lights. Much cleaner and hopefully this will cut down on any electrical noise interfering with the magnetometer which is located further in on the wing.
Disclaimer: This blog is to provide others insight into my experience and for my own historical purposes. Airplane construction is a serious affair. I have no authoritative skills relating to airplane construction. As such, any use of the information contained on this blog is at your own risk.
Saturday, April 7, 2018
Friday, April 6, 2018
Section: 20
Hours: 2
I finished up the bottom wing skin riveting. One of the more difficult parts of doing all the blind riveting in these skins is holding the bucking bar at the correct angle to get a good shop head. Since you can't see the bucking bar inside the wing, everything must be done by feel. I found the easiest to use bar is the one in the picture below. I has a nice foot that can be placed on the adjacent structure to help hold the face 90 degrees to the rivet. It was easy to feel when the foot is flat against the structure thus ensuring a good alignment on the rivet. For riveting the line of rivets to the main spar flange, I added a wood spacer to raise the face above the bottom line of rivets which had already been set.
I also used my tungsten bar. I taped on a spacer shim to the end of the bar (top right edge of bar in picture) to help keep it level against the rivets. I rested the shim on the wing skin and placed the opposite end over the rivet. When the shim was resting flat on the skin I knew the bar was perpendicular to the rivet. The thickness of the shim is about the height to the top of the finished rivet shop head from the skin.
Woody was moral support through the last couple days and he is really glad I'm done with this task.
Section: 24
Hours: 4
I spent the remainder of the day riveting the wing tip piano hinges to the wing.
Hours: 2
I finished up the bottom wing skin riveting. One of the more difficult parts of doing all the blind riveting in these skins is holding the bucking bar at the correct angle to get a good shop head. Since you can't see the bucking bar inside the wing, everything must be done by feel. I found the easiest to use bar is the one in the picture below. I has a nice foot that can be placed on the adjacent structure to help hold the face 90 degrees to the rivet. It was easy to feel when the foot is flat against the structure thus ensuring a good alignment on the rivet. For riveting the line of rivets to the main spar flange, I added a wood spacer to raise the face above the bottom line of rivets which had already been set.
I also used my tungsten bar. I taped on a spacer shim to the end of the bar (top right edge of bar in picture) to help keep it level against the rivets. I rested the shim on the wing skin and placed the opposite end over the rivet. When the shim was resting flat on the skin I knew the bar was perpendicular to the rivet. The thickness of the shim is about the height to the top of the finished rivet shop head from the skin.
Woody was moral support through the last couple days and he is really glad I'm done with this task.
Section: 24
Hours: 4
I spent the remainder of the day riveting the wing tip piano hinges to the wing.
Thursday, April 5, 2018
Wednesday, April 4, 2018
Section: 20
Hours: 5
I finished up riveting the inner bottom wing skin. Definitely going faster on the right wing. I guess technique has improved and I'm getting better at kneeling / reaching.
Here are the rivets along the j-stiffener.
Hours: 5
I finished up riveting the inner bottom wing skin. Definitely going faster on the right wing. I guess technique has improved and I'm getting better at kneeling / reaching.
Here are the rivets along the j-stiffener.
Tuesday, April 3, 2018
Section: 20
Hours: 5
The right wing bottom skin is going a little faster. I'm getting down the learning curve.
Hours: 5
The right wing bottom skin is going a little faster. I'm getting down the learning curve.
Monday, April 2, 2018
Section: 20
Hours: 5
Riveting got a little easier today- I could reach in from the end of the wing!
Here is the doubler plate and doubler angle for supporting the pitot tube mast.
Finished the left wing!!!! One more to go :-(
Hours: 5
Riveting got a little easier today- I could reach in from the end of the wing!
Here is the doubler plate and doubler angle for supporting the pitot tube mast.
Finished the left wing!!!! One more to go :-(
Sunday, April 1, 2018
Section: 20
Hours: 5
I (slowly) continued riveting the outboard bottom wing skin today.
Hours: 5
I (slowly) continued riveting the outboard bottom wing skin today.
Part of what makes this a slow job is inspecting the rivets. The shop heads are all hidden inside the wing so I've been using my iPhone to snap pictures of the rivets as I go so I can adjust technique, correct underset rivets or replace badly set rivets.
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