Section: 17
Hours: 6

I smoothed the nose flanges, fluted the flanges and final drilled and dimpled the holes. in the outboard wing leading edge ribs. Fluting these large ribs is like squeezing toothpaste in the toothpaste tube. I had more problems with these than any of the ribs in the empennage, but they all sit flat, the flanges are 90 degrees to the table and the holes all line up in a straight line.

I also trimmed 4 of the ribs to fit where the spar caps are wider at the inboard section of the wing (per dimensions given in the instructions).

I cut trim tabs off of the access door frame and finished the edges of the landing light mounting brackets.

Section: 21
Hours: 9

I washed, acid etched and primed the flap parts.

Section: 22
Hours: 9

The weather cooperated today so I washed, acid etched and primed the aileron parts.

Section: 17
Hours: 8

I started work on the leading edge ribs by buffing and polishing the edges. I used the die grinder to polish the circular cutouts.

I also made the wing and aileron cradles.

Section: 21
Hours: 8

I fabricated a jig per the plans for counter sinking holes in the hinge bracket flanges but I had a difficult time using it. I ended up mounting my counter sink with out the cage attached in my drill press to make these counter sinks. After Googling how to do this operation I discovered this setup is called a "suicide" because it is so easy to screw up. I successfully got it to work, but I took my time and stopped often to measure.

I then disassembled the flaps and dimpled all the holes common to the skins, spar and rib flanges.

Section: 21
Hours: 8

I cut the flap trailing edge pieces to size and match drilled them to the flap skins. The holes are drilled at 84 degrees to the skin surface. I cut a piece of 2 x 2 wood with an 84 degree bevel on the end to use as a drill guide.

I assembled the spar, ribs and skins with clecos. Then I match drilled the hinge flange brackets in place.

Section: 21
Hours: 8

I clecoed the flap parts together to check for fit. I used the edge break tool to adjust the edges of the nose skin so they will lie flat when assembled later.